
29 Apr Sicilian Native Grapes and the Wines They Make
In my story the other day, I offered a look at Sicily’s dramatic landscape, its viticultural legacy, and the remarkable transformation of its wine industry. Now, let’s dive into the grapes themselves—the native varieties that shape Sicily’s identity in the glass.
While international varieties still exist here (and sometimes thrive), the most compelling wines coming out of Sicily today are made from indigenous grapes, varieties with centuries of history, shaped by this island’s extremes of sun, slope, and soil. Here are some of the key grape varieties.
White Wines
Grillo
Once known primarily as one of the three grapes used in Marsala, Grillo has emerged as Sicily’s flagship white. It’s highly adaptable, able to produce crisp, mineral-driven whites from coastal vineyards, and fuller, more textured styles from inland sites.
- Style: Lemon peel, saline, often with herbal or tropical notes. Can age surprisingly well.
- Where It Grows: Western Sicily (Trapani, Marsala), but increasingly found across the island.
- Try If You Like: Vermentino, Albariño, Chablis.
Catarratto
Long dismissed as a bulk grape, Catarratto is undergoing a quiet revival. There are multiple biotypes, but “Catarratto Lucido” (the most aromatic) is the darling of quality-minded producers.
- Style: Citrus blossom, bitter almond, subtle texture. Sometimes used in orange wines.
- Where It Grows: Widespread, especially around Alcamo and Trapani.
- Try If You Like: Soave, Verdicchio, Trebbiano Spoletino.
Carricante
The white grape of Mount Etna, Carricante is grown mostly on the eastern slopes of the volcano at high elevation. Carricante produces tense, laser-sharp wines with striking minerality.
- Style: Lime, crushed rock, green apple, with a long saline finish. Built to age.
- Where It Grows: Primarily Etna (Etna Bianco DOC).
- Try If You Like: Riesling, Assyrtiko, Chablis.
Inzolia (a.k.a. Ansonica)
Often blended, but worth seeking out solo when treated with care. Inzolia adds texture and warmth, sometimes with a nutty, oxidative character.
- Style: Almond, pear, sea breeze, subtle structure.
- Where It Grows: Throughout Sicily, especially the western coast.
- Try If You Like: White Rhône blends, Macabeu, dry Sherry-adjacent whites.
Red Wines
Nero d’Avola
Sicily’s best-known red grape, and one that has evolved dramatically. Once used for bulk wine and blending, it’s now being crafted into everything from bright and juicy glou-glou to powerful, structured reds.
- Style: Red cherry, plum, spice, often with Mediterranean herbs. Style depends on elevation and winemaking.
- Where It Grows: Island-wide, but particularly in Noto, Vittoria, and central Sicily.
- Try If You Like: Syrah, Grenache, Montepulciano.
Frappato
This thin-skinned red makes some of the most delightful wines in Sicily, light-bodied, perfumed, and incredibly fresh. It’s also one half of the famed Cerasuolo di Vittoria blend (with Nero d’Avola).
- Style: Strawberry, rose petal, white pepper. Bright acidity, low tannin.
- Where It Grows: Primarily around Vittoria, in southeastern Sicily.
- Try If You Like: Gamay, Schiava, Poulsard.
Nerello Mascalese
The star of Mount Etna. Often compared to Nebbiolo or Pinot Noir, this grape thrives in volcanic soils at high elevations and produces wines with depth, minerality, and aging potential.
- Style: Sour cherry, dried herbs, smoke, iron. Structured and earthy with fine tannins.
- Where It Grows: Etna, mostly the northern and eastern slopes.
- Try If You Like: Nebbiolo, Pinot Noir, Xinomavro.
Nerello Cappuccio
Typically used as a blending partner with Nerello Mascalese to soften tannins and add color, Nerello Cappuccio is rarely bottled on its own but is increasingly of interest to winemakers working with single-parcel expressions.
Other Native Grapes to Watch
- Perricone: A spicy, rustic red making a quiet comeback in the west.
- Zibibbo: The local name for Muscat of Alexandria; used for both dry and sweet wines, especially on Pantelleria.
- Minnella & Grecanico Dorato: Ancient white grapes from Etna, often blended with Carricante.
What Makes These Grapes Special
Unlike many modern varieties bred for uniformity or yield, Sicily’s native grapes are deeply rooted in place. They don’t always behave predictably. Some require careful coaxing. Others thrive with minimal intervention. But they all carry the fingerprint of the island – its heat, its altitude, its sea air, and its wild diversity of soils.
They are also part of the reason Sicily is becoming one of the most exciting places to drink wine right now.
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