24 Apr Sicily in a Glass: An Introduction to the Island, Its History, and Its Vines

With a plan to return to Sicily this May, I’m remembering my trip last spring. It was my second time to the island, but this visit offered a different kind of immersion, a chance to dive deep into the grapes, the terroir, and the evolution of Sicilian wine.

So before I board another flight, I want to offer a primer, something to set the stage for why Sicily matters, how it got here, and why the wines coming out of this island today feel like a rebirth.

A Land of Mountains, Hills—and a Little Bit of Africa

Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean and yet only about 25,000 square kilometers. What’s surprising is how little of that is flat. About 65% of Sicily is covered in hills, and another 24% is mountainous, making it the second region in Italy for mountain viticulture, after Alto Adige.

This topography gives way to dramatic differences in altitude, exposure, and soils, all within short distances. You can stand on the sandy shores of Marsala and, just a few kilometers inland, be in the foothills of a 1,500-meter mountain with entirely different soils and microclimates.

The shape of the island is roughly triangular, flanked by two seas and nine provinces. Most of the wine production (around 85%) is concentrated in the west, particularly in Trapani, the province surrounding Marsala. But each part of Sicily brings its own character.

A Region of Contrasts

Geologically, Sicily is incredibly complex. It’s a place where four major tectonic and geological influences collide. You’ll find flisch (a compacted mix of clay and sand), limestone, gypsum, volcanic basalt, and even marble—all contributing to a stunning diversity in soil and, by extension, wine.

• Trapani: Calcareous soils dominate here, and vineyards stretch from the coastline to the interior. Marsala, the historic wine port, sits here on the sea.
• Palermo: A mix of urban bustle and hillside vineyards just inland.
• Catania: Home to Mount Etna, where volcanic soils and high elevations produce wines that have become some of Sicily’s most acclaimed.
• Siracusa & Ragusa: In the southeast, these are among the flattest areas of Sicily. Ragusa sits near the boundary of the African and Eurasian tectonic plates, giving it an almost continental climate with a searing sun and soils rich in chalk and limestone.
• Messina: In the northeast corner, with marble-like rocks and less viticultural activity.
• Caltanissetta & Enna: The two inland provinces, each with higher elevations and more extreme continental influences.
• Agrigento: A region of both coast and interior, with a range of altitudes and soils.

From Europe’s Wine Tank to a Regional Renaissance

For generations, Sicily was known as the “wine tank of Europe.” When phylloxera devastated French vineyards in the mid-1800s, Sicily (along with Abruzzo and Puglia) became the supplier of bulk wine for the continent.

Wine was shipped north on boats. It was cheap and abundant. By the time France recovered, the bulk contracts ended and by the 1870s Sicily was left with a wine industry built on volume, not quality. That model persisted for a century.

It wasn’t until the late 1970s that things began to change. There was the 1976 Judgement of Paris which put American wine on the map, and later Italy’s Sassicaia stunned at a tasting in London. Then, with the rise of Robert Parker, styles began to change and Bordeaux blends became the style. The first wave of modern Sicilian wine reflected these trends, focusing on Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, barrique usage, and selected yeasts.

But eventually, the island began to look inward again.  A new generation of producers started rethinking what Sicilian wine could be, not just what the market expected.

And that’s when things really got interesting.

Today’s Sicily: A Continent Unto Itself

Sicily today is a mosaic of micro-regions and grape varieties. There are over 95 authorized varieties, including 53 ancient cultivars, and 70% of the vineyard area is planted to indigenous grapes.

The split is roughly 65% white and 35% red, though many of the reds, like Frappato and Nerello Mascalese, are incredibly transparent and light-footed, defying the stereotype of “big, bold Sicilian reds.”

With 98,000 hectares under vine, Sicily is the second-largest region in Italy by vineyard area and has three times the vineyard surface of New Zealand. It’s also Italy’s #1 region for organically farmed grapes and #1 for vineyard area in the hills.

There’s an adaptability, or perhaps a plasticity, in Sicilian varieties. Many of them can produce multiple styles: crisp and saline, oxidative and nutty, structured or elegant. But they’re not widely planted outside the island. They thrive here because this is their home.

Why It Matters

To taste Sicilian wine today is to witness a region reclaiming its own story, rooted in history, shaped by trade, migration, and hardship, and now evolving with confidence and identity.

Whether it’s the volcanic crunch of an Etna Bianco, the sun-kissed perfume of a Frappato, or the sleek minerality of a Grillo from the coast near Marsala, each glass speaks not just of place, but of purpose.

And if Sicily is a continent in miniature, then its wines are the dialects, each with something essential to say.