Is there such a thing as perfection in wine? We know when a wine is tainted but there are other things, such as brettanomyces, volatile acidity, oxidation and reduction that we find in some of the great wines in the world. Are these flaws? Are they intentional? Or are they assets in the wine? This topic was one of the fascinating seminars at TEXSOM this past August in Dallas which I wrote about in the Napa Valley Register and share here. These are topics definitely worth thought and discussion and I thank Jamie Goode and Elaine Chukan Brown for leading this interesting discussion.
Here is an interesting thought: what exactly is a flaw in wine or when is it part of the character? We know when a wine is tainted with TCA (trichloroanisole) or TBA (tribromoanisole), the wine has undesirable aromas and is not the intention of the winemaker. But, what about other things such as brettanomyces, volatile acidity, oxidation and reduction? Are these flaws or choices? Do these things enhance a wine or destroy a wine?
This was a fascinating topic covered at the 15th Annual TexSom, a two-day conference in Dallas presented by the Court of Master Sommeliers, Guild Somm, Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET) and SommFoundation. Jamie Goode, Ph.D, and Elaine Chukan Brown led a discussion of what constitutes a flaw and how that may, or may not, be considered a flaw in the current era.
There are many different stories about how one finds themselves in the wine industry. I have been a fan of the Two Shepherds wines ever since I first tasted them a few years ago. And recently, I sat down with owner and winemaker William Allen to learn more about how he went from a shepherd of the palate to a shepherd of the grape. You can read about it in the story I wrote in the Napa Valley Register and you can find here.
Everyone in the wine industry has a story about how they got into wine, and there are many different trajectories.
There are those who go to school and study enology and then work harvests at various wineries before taking a job at one winery. There are those who are born into a family business that includes vineyards and a winery. There are those who make a lot of money in a different industry and then decide to purchase a winery as a “retirement” project.
And there are those who start making wine as a hobby and then grow from there. William Allen of Two Shepherds in Sonoma started as a wine blogger, became garagiste winemaker-turned-commercial-winemaker-and-grape-grower, all in the span of a decade.
The Piemonte region in northwest Italy is famous for its Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, Moscato d'Asti, Brachetto d'Acqui, Arneis and Cortese. In addition, there is Grignolino,...
Sometimes there are meals that defy words. A meal that is an experience beyond your imagination and yet rooted in something you love, food and wine. That was my experience at Daní Maison, a two-star Michelin restaurant on the island of Ischia in Southern Italy.
While traveling around Campagna, I headed out to Ischia for a couple days of relaxation. I had heard about the thermal baths and thought that I would just lay low for a couple days. But while at dinner at the one star Michelin restaurant Il Buco in Sorrento, Chef Beppe Aversa told me I must check out Daní Maison. Of course, when I heard it was a two Michelin star restaurant, I figured the chance of me getting in only two days later was more than unlikely.
However, I was wrong. Perhaps it was because I was looking at a Sunday night, just after the last weekend of summer and most people were starting to head home to get back to work. But I went online while sitting at dinner my first night in Ischia to read a bit more about the restaurant and see if I might find an email to inquire about a last-minute spot. I entered my name and email and said I was looking for one seat the following night. Unexpectedly, and promptly, I received an email confirming a seat! I was excited! I hesitated for a moment, thinking about what the evening might cost me, but then thought, why not? I was on vacation. This might be my only chance. And, if I was able to get a reservation with only one day's notice, perhaps it was meant to be.
Moscato d'Asti DOCG, the sparking wine made from the Moscato white grape and produced in the northwest Italy provinces of Asti, Alessandria and Cuneo, is...
Seeking out memorable meals is something that pleases my palate. So, after an amazing week in southern Italy, which included winery visits, historical tours and a boat trip down the Amalfi coast, I capped off the week with a meal in Sorrento at Il Buco, considered one of the best restaurants in Sorrento.
Located in the heart of Sorrento, near the sea, Il Buco has been serving food worthy its Michelin Star. Open for more than 20 years, Il Buco has held its Michelin Star for 14 years! I arrived for my 8pm reservation and was taken down a few steps into the the dining room which used to be the wine cellar of an old monastery. My table was waiting for me, set for one person. Unlike in some restaurants where I am given a funny look when I ask for a table for one, the staff at Il Buco made me feel welcome immediately.
I was offered an aperitivo of sparkling wine or a cocktail but decided to pass as had read about the large curated wine cellar and was planning to do a wine pairing. Before I was given the menu, I was presented with an amuse of marinated anchovy with tomatoes and sliced toasted almonds. The sweet fresh tomato against the salty fish woke up my palate and the toasted almonds added a nice touch.