06 May Gérard Bertrand and the Meaning of Multidimensional Wine

Gérard Bertrand is not just one of the most renowned winemakers in France; he’s a visionary in biodynamic winemaking and a global ambassador for the South of France. At sixty years of age and with fifty vintages behind him, he’s created a winemaking empire that now includes 17 wine estates and 2,500 acres of biodynamically farmed vineyards. But more than the numbers, what stood out at a recent tasting I attended was his deep belief in wine as experience, a philosophy he explores in his latest book, Multidimensional Wine: An Initiation.

This was not just a tasting. It was a masterclass in terroir, energy, emotion, and intention. It was about wine as a sensory journey with Bertrand as our guide.

Biodynamic Roots in the South of France

The story began with his father, who believed in the potential of the South of France back in the 1960s and ‘70s, a time when the region was overlooked in the fine wine world. Bertrand followed in his footsteps, working his first harvest at age 10. Today, his estates stretch across 50 appellations, cultivating over 70 grape varieties, and he’s become a global leader in biodynamic viticulture in France.

But this isn’t just about agriculture. Bertrand speaks of wine with reverence, as something alive, something with layers.

Understanding Multidimensional Wine

One of the most compelling ideas he shared is what he calls the “Pyramid of Sense.” At its base is pleasure: aromas, textures, flavors that bring immediate enjoyment. Above that is terroir, the distinct character of the land. Then aftertaste, followed by emotion. And at the top, the message, the soul of the wine.

To Bertrand, a multidimensional wine is one that engages every part of this pyramid. “You can have all the skill and technique,” he told us, “but to make a truly great wine, you need a bit of madness. A striving for the impossible.”

Tasting Through the Pyramid

We began with two white wines that captured both freshness and precision:

Castellum 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, from the IGP Cité de Carcassonne, is grown in limestone soils influenced by both Atlantic and Mediterranean climates. On the nose, it was all white blossom and ripe yellow fruit. On the palate, a vibrant, mineral-driven acidity lingered. The suggested food pairing was scallops seared in butter and ginger.

Domaine de l’Aigle 2022 Chardonnay is from Limoux, the cradle of French sparkling wine. The Chardonnay is planted at 1200 feet. The elegant, barrel-fermented wine revealed delicate white peach, almond, and green apple skin aromas. It was made for lobster or even roasted chicken with lemon thyme.

Then came the red wines.

Château l’Hospitalet 2021, a blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre, offers wild Mediterranean notes of black fruits, herbs, and garrigue and a mouthwatering, savory quality. L’Hospitalet is Bertrand’s estate property that includes a hotel and three restaurants, underscoring his belief that wine, food, and place are inseparable.

Cigalus Rouge 2021, from Aude Hauterive, blends eight varieties – Merlot, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Franc, and more – in a kind of East-meets-West harmony. The result is a wine with presence: juicy black fruits, violets, and drying tannins balanced by bright acidity. It was suggested to pair this wine with a cheeseburger and duck fat fries. I couldn’t argue.

And then came something extraordinary – Clos du Temple Rosé

Clos du Temple 2022 is not your average rosé. Made from Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Viognier grown on schist soils in Languedoc-Cabrières, the wine is aged for texture and elegance. Bertrand suggested it alongside caviar, an unusual but stunningly effective pairing of salinity and acidity.

We finished with two very special wines.

Clos d’Ora 2017, from Minervois-La Livinière, is Bertrand’s most spiritual wine. A blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Carignan grown in soils of chalk, sandstone, and marl, it’s rich yet refined. Full of soft tannins and dark fruit, but what I remember most is the calm it seemed to carry.

Villa Soleilla 2020, a blend of Roussanne, Vermentino, and Viognier, is fermented in amphora, stainless steel, and oak. Sourced from one plot which faces the ocean, the wine offers notes of mandarin, honey, and white tea, as well as texture and lift. And it paired beautifully with a piece of Parmigiano.

Wine as Diplomacy, Wine as Memory

Throughout the tasting, Bertrand spoke of wine as diplomacy, as a force that connects culture, gastronomy, art, and spirit. He reminded us that the best wines don’t just taste good, they make you feel something.

To him, a bottle of wine is never just a beverage. It’s a memory waiting to be made, a table shared, a message delivered. It is a multidimensional wine.