18 Mar G.D. Vajra: A Legacy Rooted in Passion and Perseverance

In the rolling hills of Piemonte’s Langhe region, nestled within the village of Barolo, stands G.D. Vajra di Aldo e Milena Vaira, an independent, family-run winery with a spirit as vibrant as its wines. The Vaira family’s legacy is one of passion, perseverance, and a deep-rooted respect for the land.

Giuseppe Vaira, the eldest son, along with his sister Francesca and brother Isidoro, carry the torch of their parents, Aldo and Milena, overseeing winemaking with a philosophy grounded in energy, expressiveness, and tradition. At Vajra, harvest season is a time of pure joy—grueling 18-hour days stretching over two months, yet always ending with smiles, satisfaction, and the camaraderie of a team that feels like family.

The Vaira story is one of rebellion and devotion. Aldo Vaira, born in Torino, the bustling “Detroit of Italy”, was expected to follow an urban path. His grandfather had moved the family there after the war, having stood against fascism and later working for the Ministry of Defense. But in 1968, at age 15 and amidst Italy’s student protests stemming from discontent with traditional society, Aldo’s defiant spirit led him to march against the status quo. His father swiftly sent him to the countryside as punishment, yet Aldo had fallen in love with farming by the end of that summer. He shocked his family by declaring his wish to return to the land at a time when most sought city life. His father’s only condition was that Aldo had to pursue a college education. Nicknamed “Il Professore,” he balanced teaching agricultural science with his growing passion for organic farming, inspired by his mentor, Francesco Garofolo, one of the first organic proponents in Italy. Since 1971, Vajra has upheld organic practices, resisting the wave of modern fertilizers and instead embracing nature’s wisdom.

The Vajra family’s journey is one of triumph over adversity. In 1972, Aldo refused to sell his grapes at a loss, instead purchasing a press and crafting his own wine. With just 7 hectares and a mere 0.4 planted to vines, he built what is now an 80-hectare estate. Disaster struck in 1986 when a hailstorm wiped out their crop just as they planned to expand the cellar. Yet, the community’s encouragement urged them forward, leading to the diversification that now defines Vajra’s resilience.

The dedication and passion of the Vajra family are reflected in every bottle, from the noble Barolos to the delicate Dolcetto. The winery’s vineyards, perched high in the hamlet of Vergne on the western end of Barolo, offer a unique terroir.

Dolcetto is like a princess and needs love and dedication to thrive. People who are committed to making it, like Vajra, love the grape and make one that has heart, like the 2022 Dolcetto d’Alba Coste & Fossati, sourced from vines planted in 1979. The Dolcetto thrives atop two hills typically reserved for Nebbiolo. Dolcetto, which does not like heat, prefers the wind and found its home at the top of the hills. The old vines are low-yielding and result in fresh wine with spicy tannins and a juicy finish.

Barbera, another cornerstone, tells its own tale. It does not like the wind and can handle heavier soils, so it is planted at lower elevations.  The 2022 Barbera d’Alba Superiore had been a single vineyard wine from 1998 to 2008, but now it is sourced from a range of estate vineyards. The grapes are fermented for 20 days and age for at least 12 months in oak, as both long skin contact and oak use help increase tannins in a grape that has less tannins. The resulting wine offers vibrant red fruit aromas and spice with a balanced structure and acidity.

The pinnacle of Vajra’s artistry lies in its Barolo wines, each vineyard expressing a distinct microclimate and geological signature. The 2020 Barolo Coste di Rose, sourced from the estate’s lowest elevation vineyard and the newest single vineyard from Vajra, reveals a serious yet joyful wine with red fruit and floral aromas, shaped by the sandy soils between Cannubi and Bussia. The 2020 Barolo Ravera, in contrast, offers layered complexity, with iron-rich marl lending structure akin to an Italian lasagna—alternating red and white strata of power and finesse. The wine, with red fruit, white pepper, and cedar aromas, has more volume and body and a round midpalate.  The 2020 Barolo Bricco delle Viole comes from the estate’s crown jewel, a vineyard planted in 1949 that sits at the highest elevation of the three vineyards. The 2020 Barolo shows an unparalleled balance of muscle and elegance with violets and crushed flowers, dark red fruits, and balsamic tones.

In addition to Dolcetto, Barbera, and Nebbiolo, Vajra also produces Fresia, an ancient grape once ranked third in Piemonte that was discovered in 2004 to be one of the closest relatives to Nebbiolo. Since 1989, Freisa found a new voice at Vajra. Planted in the southwest tip of Bricco di Viole, in a place where Nebbiolo should be planted, the Freisa was traditionally made as a frizzante wine. But a mistake actually made it better. Vajra vinifies Freisa dry, resulting in a complex wine with a bold character. The 2021 Langhe Freisa Kyè was aged for 9 months, partially in large Slavonian oak casks and French barrels, resulting in dark garnet wine with beautiful perfume aromas of wild berry, black cherry, and spice. On the palate, the wine is energetic with crunchy acidity and a long finish.

From the western slopes of Barolo to the sweeping views of Bricco delle Viole, G.D. Vajra is a testament to the beauty of tradition, the innovation of a curious mind, and the love of a family deeply entwined with the land. The wines of Vajra are not just bottles; they are chapters of a history written in vines, weathered by time, and shaped by an enduring passion for excellence.