18 Nov Beneath the Forest Floor: White Truffle Hunting in Piemonte and Umbria

For years, truffle hunting lived high on my travel bucket list. I imagined the misty forests, eager dogs, and the buried treasures of Italy’s culinary world. Last winter, and again this winter, I finally made the journey during the heart of white truffle season, exploring two of Italy’s most revered truffle territories: Piemonte and Umbria.

White truffles (Tuber magnatum) are among the rarest and most coveted ingredients in the world, prized for their intoxicating aroma and ability to transform the simplest of dishes into something unforgettable. Unlike black truffles, which grow closer to the surface and develop flavor when warmed, white truffles must be eaten fresh and raw to fully experience their complex aromas. They’re often shaved delicately over pasta, eggs, or risotto and are always the star of the plate.

Though Piemonte, particularly around Alba, is the more internationally famous home of white truffles, Umbria’s forests are equally rich with these underground gems. In fact, white truffles grow naturally in both regions, nourished by symbiotic relationships with trees like oak, hazelnut, poplar, willow, and elm. Yet while the truffle itself may be similar, my experiences hunting them in Piemonte and Umbria revealed just how much the landscape, culture, and traditions of a place can shape the journey.

What Makes White Truffles So Special

White truffles are not your typical mushrooms. They belong to the same broad fungal family but take a very different approach to life: they grow entirely underground, forming close partnerships with the roots of certain trees. The trees provide nutrients, and in return, the truffles enrich the soil and roots in a beautiful, natural symbiosis.

Truffle reproduction relies on animals. When ripe, truffles release an intense aroma detectable only by sensitive noses, like those of specially trained dogs. Wild animals are also drawn to this aroma, digging up the truffles, eating them, and dispersing the spores elsewhere through their droppings.

Growing a truffle is a slow and delicate process. It takes about three to four months for a truffle to fully develop, regardless of its final size. However, maturation, which is when the truffle’s aroma truly peaks, happens rapidly, often in just a few hours. Only a ripe truffle will release the scent needed for a dog to find it, making timing and conditions critical.

The best soils for truffles are neutral in pH (around 7–8), low in organic matter, and rich in minerals like clay and marl. The soil must be well-aerated and naturally varied. Truffles thrive best where nature remains relatively undisturbed. Truffles are over 80% water and highly sensitive to their environment; humidity plays a key role in their aroma development, which is why fall and early winter are peak hunting seasons.

Once found, truffles are fragile and demand careful handling. They are best stored wrapped in paper (changed daily) in a closed container inside the refrigerator. Kept properly, they can last around five days. Some recommend storing them alongside eggs or cheese, allowing the truffle’s heady aroma to infuse these foods naturally. However, contrary to some myths, truffles should not be stored in rice as rice draws out the moisture and shortens their lifespan.

Piemonte: La Morra and the Heart of Tradition

My truffle hunt took place in La Morra, part of the UNESCO-recognized Langhe region, where vineyards roll over hillsides and ancient forests guard their secrets closely. This part of Piemonte, encompassing Langhe, Roero and Asti-Monferrato, has been famous for truffles for centuries. The International Alba White Truffle Fair, which began over 100 years ago, still draws crowds every autumn, celebrating the earthy treasures found beneath these hills.

Hunting in Piemonte feels like stepping into a fiercely protected world. Only licensed hunters (about 13,000 across the region) can legally forage for truffles. Competition is intense, and it is not uncommon to hear whispers of rival hunters sabotaging each other with poisoned meatballs meant to harm dogs. Because of this, secrecy is paramount; hunters often search at night when the forest is quieter, the dogs more focused, and prying eyes less likely to spot them.

Dogs are trained from a young age, often selected based on bloodlines that have been hunting for generations. The bond between hunter and dog is one of deep trust, nurtured over years of work together. I learned that females typically mature faster into good hunters, ready by age three or four, while males take closer to five years. The training begins gently, first with black truffles to teach the scent and reward system, eventually progressing to the prized whites.

Soil in this area varies: in some parts of Piemonte, chalky and clay-rich ground lends white truffles a slightly garlicky note, an intensity that lingers on the palate long after the first whiff. In La Morra, the smell of a fresh truffle here was almost overwhelming, honeyed, spicy, and earthy all at once.

Umbria: A Family Affair

In Umbria, my experience took on a very different flavor, both literally and figuratively. Here, the atmosphere was less guarded and more welcoming, with a strong sense of family hospitality.

I visited a truffle hunting experience founded by two brothers (Andrea and Michele) who initially started Seven Restaurant Cafe, small restaurant featuring local wine and cheese, in Monteleone d’Orvieto. As their passion for truffles grew, they decided to share the full forest-to-table journey with their guests.

Three years ago, their story even caught the attention of the BBC, which filmed a documentary showcasing their work. One brother (Andrea), a former professional soccer player (his jersey number, “Seven,” became the name of their business), now also serves as a sommelier, crafting wine pairings for truffle-centric meals. Michele is the in the kitchen.

In Umbria, the truffle hunt is designed to be shared. Guests walk alongside the hunters and dogs, learning about the forest, the soil, and the rhythms of the land. Here, it felt less like uncovering a guarded secret and more like being welcomed into an ongoing family tradition.

While the white truffles themselves are fundamentally the same species as those in Piemonte, slight differences in soil composition, particularly softer, lighter woods like poplar, gave the Umbrian truffles a slightly subtler, more elegant flavor.

The aroma was still unmistakably rich but had a lighter, more floral lift compared to Piemonte’s denser, more garlicky notes.

Same Truffle, Different Worlds

While the truffles in Piemonte and Umbria share the same prized identity, the experiences around them are shaped by centuries of local culture, geography, and tradition. In Piemonte, truffle hunting is a fiercely competitive, often secretive tradition, passed down through generations and protected like a family fortune. In Umbria, the experience feels more open-hearted, rooted in hospitality and a desire to share the magic of the forest.

Both are unforgettable in their own ways. And for anyone planning a trip to Italy during truffle season, from late September through January, I can’t recommend it enough. Whether you’re wandering the misty hills of La Morra or walking in an Umbrian forest beside a proud truffle-hunting dog, the thrill of uncovering these earthy treasures is pure magic.

If truffle hunting is on your bucket list, like it was mine, trust me: it’s even better than you imagine.

Tip: Read the fine print for many of the tours offered in Piemonte as some will say “simulated white truffle hunt”. 

For authentic experiences, I recommend the two I did:

In Piemonte: Truffle Tour

In Umbria: Truffle Hunting Experience with Seven Restaurant Cafe