Sangiovese. I have drunk it as a red wine. I have also had Rosé of Sangiovese. But, a white Sangiovese? It was a first…and after sipping it, I hope not the last. That is why the Capanna di Cencioni ‘Sangiobi’ 2019 Bianco Toscana IGT is the Please The Palate wine of the week.
I am a fan of red grapes that are vinified white. I like them not just because it sounds interesting to have a white wine version of a grape we typically know for red wines, but also because I enjoy the wines I have tried. I find that red grapes vinified white have similar aromas to the red wine and as white wine offer incredible textures and freshness. The Capanna ‘Sangiobi’ 2019 Bianco Toscana IGT is a perfect example.
Owned by the Cencioni family since 1957, the Capanna farm is located in the north of Montalcino. Giuseppe Cencioni founded the winery and was helped by his sons Benito and Franco. One of the first farms of the modern period of Brunello, they started bottling their own wines in the 1960’s and after Brunello di Montalcino was granted DOC status in 1966, Giuseppe was one of the 25 founders of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino. Today fourth generation Amedeo Cencioni oversees the vineyards and winemaking.
Brunello di Montalcino is a highly-regarded region for red wines. There is a small amount of Moscato grown to make the sparkling, still and sweet wines labeled as Moscadello di Montalcino DOC. And small amounts of Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Sauvignon blanc are also used for blending in the Sant’Antimo DOC, a small sub-appellation of Montalcino. But Sangiovese is the primary grape of the region.
Capanna makes Brunello di Montalcino, as well as a Rosato, from Sangiovese. So adding a white Sangiovese completes the trio. The Sangiovese Grosso is sourced from the bottom of the slope in the vineyard. The grapes are immediately de-stemmed and pressed, and the must is separated from the skins after a few hours. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks and then the wine is aged in oak casks for a few months.
The wine is a clear, pale yellow color. The nose has aromas of green apple, crushed rock, lime pith, and stone fruit pits. And on the palate, the wine has a lovely mouthfeel with minerality, salinity and freshness. This is a delicious, food-friendly wine that retails for $24.