06 Apr Please The Palate Pick of the Week: Dinner at the Chefs Counter At Maude Beverly Hills
I have officially enjoyed my 49th dining experience at Maude Restaurant in Beverly Hills. However, for all the times I have dined there, one place I never sat was at the Chefs Counter, until now. Sitting at the chef’s counter gave me a front row seat to the preparation of each dish. The meticulous precision applied to each dish which was then paired perfectly with a domestic wine made this another memorable dining experience at Maude and the Please The Palate pick of the week.
Maude first opened on February 1, 2014. They have now been open for 10 years and I have dined at Maude throughout the decade. In fact, I have only missed eating there in 2021 (when they were closed) and in 2023. In 2019, Maude received its Michelin Star and it has held on to it. But after dining there recently, I would not be surprised if they get 2 Michelin Stars this year!
Since reopening after the Covid shutdown, Chef de Cuisine Osiel Gastelum has been at the helm of Maude. The contemporary American menu is seasonal and highlights California’s finest ingredients from the land to the seat, as well as traditional Mexican ingredients inspired by Chef Oseil’s upbringing in Culican Sinaloa, Mexico. While the menu does not change monthly, or quarterly, as it did in the past, there are small changes each month.
The level of detail that goes into each dish is incredible and the result is a work of art. Sitting at the counter, I enjoyed watched the chefs precisely manipulate the tweezers as they delicately placed flowers and other small items on top of a dish. I was impressed by their levels of concentration and steady hands, especially with the peering eyes of us diners at the counter.
The professionalism in the open kitchen is also found on the dining room floor. Overseeing the front of house is General Manager Jessica Taylor who welcomes guests with her warmth and cheerful smile. Each server is knowledgeable about the dishes and offers the type of service expected at this level of fine dining. On the one hand, they were not obtrusive or disruptive but at the same time, they were friendly with smiles on their faces.
The Maude menu is a 9-course tasting menu but with a few extra dishes thrown in, it is more like 12-15 courses. And adding a wine pairing will really elevate the entire experience even more. Jessica has put together two wine-pairing options. The Classic Wine Pairing features an interesting and unique selection of domestic wines and the Reserve Wine Pairing features an international selection of wines.
THE MENU
My recent meal included the following dishes with wines from the Classic Wine Pairing.
Snacks – Yellowfin Tostada, Pai Tee, Green Garlic Pillow
NV Bricoleur Vineyards “Flying by the Seat of our Pants”, North Coast
Santa Barbara Spiny Lobster with Salted Persian Cucumber, Buddha’s Hand, Aguachile Rojo
Momokawa Sake, Junmai Ginjo, Oregon
Ranched Purple Sea Urchin with Sea Lettuce Sabayon, White Sturgeon Caviar, Page Mandarin
2022 Jolie-Laide Trousseau Gris, “Fanucchi-Wood Road,” Sonoma County
Finley Farms Beets with Golden Kaluga Caviar, Buckwheat Chawanmushi, Beet Vinegar
2021 Ryme Cellars, Rose of Aglianico, Heringer Vineyard, Clarksburg
The Cultured Abalone, Manchamanteles, Liver Puree, Weiser Family Farm Cone Cabbage
2014 Terre Rouge Roussanne, Sierra Foothills
House Made Bread & Butter
Line-Caught Black Cod with Chile Morita Ash, Coco Beans, Asari Clams
2021 Leah Jorgensen “Tour Rain” Cabernet Franc/Gamay Noir, Oregon
Wolfe Ranch Quail with Heart Tart, Liver Pate, Mushroom Fricassee
2018 Clendenen Family Vineyard “The Pip” Nebbiolo, Santa Maria Valley
Point Reyes Farmstead with Quinta, Black Truffle, Celeriac
2021 The Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Blanc, Willamette Valley
Chamomile, Makrut Lime Honey, Candied Kumquat, Chocolate Mint
Santa Barbara Pistachio Co with Pistachio Cremeux, Lemongrass Namelaka, Buttermilk Gelato
2018 Dashe “Lily Hill Vineyard” Late Harvest Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley
Mendoza Family Farms Rhubarb with Tarragon, Vanilla Yogurt, Hibiscus
2021 Quady “Elysium” Black Muscat, California
Mignardises
Sitting at the Chef’s Counter was a new experience at Maude. While I no longer dine at Maude monthly or quarterly, it is on my annual list because I know that when I dine at Maude, I know I will have an exceptional experience.