07 Oct BierBeisl: Serving Up Great Austrian Cuisine

Living in Los Angeles, when you think of Austrian chefs, you probably think Wolfgang Puck. But there is a new Austrian chef to look out for! Chef Bernhard Mairinger is redefining what Austrian cuisine is by elevating classic dishes to a fine dining level at his restaurant BierBeisl. BierBeisl (Bier means “beer” and Beisl means “café”) is a modern, industrial space that offers minimal décor yet is warm and inviting. The open space is filled with tables and we sat at a long communal table where we could see the very tall 28 year old Chef Mairinger working. The wine and beer list at BierBeisl offers a unique selection of Austrian beers and wines. We began with a Stiegl Radler, a grapefruit beer concoction made with half Goldbrau and half natural grapefruit soda. A crisp, citrus drink, this is a perfectly refreshing start to the meal and also great for those who may not be big beer drinkers, like myself.  And at only 2.5% alcohol, not only is it easy to drink but it’s low calorie as well! To pair with the food, Chef offered a wine tasting sampler. All of the wines offered great acidity and minerality that matched well with the rich dishes. BierBeisl 2011 House Wine – a Gruner Veltliner produced by Domaine Wachau, this wine has floral notes and great minerality. Wieninger 2011 Wiener Gemischter – a softer and lighter wine, this is a field blend with the dominant grapes being Gruner Veltliner, Weisburgunder, Chardonnay and Welsh Riesling Weingut Brundlmayer 2009 Steinmassel Riesling (not pictured) – Wtih notes of white flower, there is a brightness on the front of the palate and a medium finish Leth 2011 Roter Veltliner Hofweingaten, Lagen Reserve, Wagram “Bier-Radi” – Salted daikon raddish served raw with salt and pepper, this extremely light dish is great to snack on “Bretz’n” – a fresh homemade pretzel served with spicy brown mustard House Potato Spread (potato, sour cream, chive and shallot) and “Liptauer” (ricotta, cream cheese, bell pepper, cornichon, paprika, garlic, caraway seed) – these spreads are great with the pretzel but also on their own Creamy Pumpkin Soup – made with pumpkin, a little butternut squash and butter, this sweet and creamy soup is served with white tomato foam and pumpkin seed pesto Veal Loaf Snack “Leberkaseweckerl” – a thick slab of veal loaf (a cross between meatloaf and pate) served between a multigrain pretzel bun with tarragon mustard “Schweinsbratl” – a “Duo of Pork” with Green Bacon (lardo) and perfectly crispy braised pork belly and served with apple mustard, pickled house vegetables and fresh grated horseradish. The apple mustard was so fresh and tasty that we were eating with a spoon. “Kasekrainer” – swiss cheese infused beef and pork sausage served with tarragon mustard and fresh horseradish. The Swiss cheese oozes out as you cut into the rich, salty sausage. This is a definitely must order! Hand Cut Spatzle – soft, tender and full of flavor Potato Salad made with mustard and veal bouillon “Kaiserschmarrn” (also known as “Emperor’s Nonsense”) – a cross between a pancake and a soufflé (this dish must rise), it is ripped and torn as plated and served with powdered sugar and a warm plum compote. I would, and will, return just for a large plate of this light and fluffy dessert. This was my first true Austrian meal and Chef Mairinger’s modern approach to classic dishes has made me a fan. Watch Iron Chef America on October 12^th for “Battle Oktoberfest” where Chef Bernhard Mairinger will compete against Chefs Michael Symon and Geoffrey Zakarian. Chef Mairinger’s Iron Chef Menu will be available at BierBeisl after the show airs. BierBeisl Restaurant 9669 S. Santa Monica Blvd, Beverly Hills 310 271 7274