17 Apr Beyond Nouveau: Digging Deeper Into Beaujolais

You hear Beaujolais and odds are your mind goes straight to Nouveau. That pop of fresh Gamay released every November, racing to market as the first wine of the vintage – it’s playful, it’s fruity, and it’s deeply tied to the region’s history. But while Nouveau made Beaujolais famous, it’s far from the whole story.

The truth is, Beaujolais is so much more than Nouveau. The region is growing and making some of the best wines and there’s a rich, nuanced world beneath that celebratory red façade. So, what’s really going on with Beaujolais? Let’s dig beneath the surface as I did at a recent seminar hosted by Greg Van Wagner Founder of SommGeo, Guillaume Blisson, Export Manager of Mommessin in North America, and Master Sommelier Josh Orr.

A Region in Motion

Beaujolais has often been boxed in by three dominant themes: Nouveau, natural, and carbonic. And while these are still part of the landscape, they can obscure the region’s diversity. Cru wines, long appreciated for their expressive terroir, are finally starting to get the attention they deserve. And the broader region is stepping into the spotlight, too.

Where once Beaujolais was broadly split into “granite up north” and “limestone and clay down south,” producers are now working with greater intention. They’re looking through the lens of terroir with fresh eyes—asking better questions, applying curiosity, and telling clearer stories. As Master Sommelier Josh Orr puts it: “Wine affords curiosity.” The interplay of producer, vintage, and soil is a constant conversation. And in Beaujolais, soil speaks loudly.

Geodiversity at Its Core

Beaujolais may be compact, but it’s a geological patchwork. Over 300 soil types blanket the region, with granite, limestone, and bluestone leading the charge. These ancient soils are the backbone of Beaujolais’ expression.
Granite and bluestone, both born of magma, differ in formation and effect. Bluestone, forged underwater, is denser and more compact. Granite, which formed above water, is looser, crumblier. Both are prized, but pink granite in particular, rich in quartz, feldspar, and black mica, is found in many of the top Crus, especially along the western hillsides where elevation rises and the soils deepen.

These hillsides are no joke. Vines climb steep inclines, some over 30%, with altitudes averaging around 300 meters and stretching up to 600. That kind of elevation, combined with these complex soils, yields wines of tension, lift, and layered depth.

A Tapestry of Terroirs

The 10 northern crus (think Morgon, Fleurie, Moulin-à-Vent) are surrounded by Village level vineyards spread across 38 communes. Together they span 3,390 hectares, much of it planted on granite. These vineyards act as a buffer zone around the Crus, and increasingly, they’re producing serious wines in their own right.

And while 96% of Beaujolais is red, there’s growing interest in its white wines, especially Chardonnay planted on limestone in the southern sector. These golden-hued rocks of the south, rich in clay and chalk, give rise to elegant, mineral-driven whites that are well worth seeking out.

The Bottom Line

Beaujolais is not just a region. It’s a geological mosaic, a viticultural playground, and a place where curiosity thrives. The wines being made here today are some of the best the region has ever produced. The labels may still say Beaujolais, but the experience is anything but generic.

So next time someone says “Beaujolais,” don’t stop at Nouveau. Ask about the soil. Ask about the slope. Ask what’s beneath.

Nine Beaujolais Wines to Discover

All are available in the U.S.

Beaujolais is more than just red, and far more diverse than its reputation suggests. These nine wines, grouped by style and soil expression, offer a guided tasting tour through the region’s evolving identity.

Bright & Mineral – Chardonnay on Limestone and Clay

These whites highlight Beaujolais’ often-overlooked ability to make fresh, expressive Chardonnay, particularly from its southern reaches, where limestone and clay dominate.

Pardon & Fils 2023 AOC Beaujolais Blanc
Stainless steel aging and lees contact make this Chardonnay a bright, refreshing option with yellow fruit and a saline zip.

→ Pair with: Goat cheese salad or grilled shrimp with lemon.

Domaine Yohan Lardy 2023 AOC Beaujolais Village Blanc, Lieu-dit Les Bruyères
Textured and aromatic, with ripe peach and yellow apple on the nose and hints of floral and nutty notes. Aged in cement and old barrels.

→ Pair with: Roast chicken or a creamy mushroom pasta.

Domaine Robert Perroud 2022 AOC Beaujolais Blanc “Réserve des 3 Pièces”
A rich, oak-aged Chardonnay with depth, ripe stone fruit, and a backbone of acidity. This is a white with structure and presence.

→ Pair with: Lobster thermidor or triple-cream cheese.

Floral & Lifted – Gamay from High-Elevation Granite

Wines from Chiroubles and surrounding crus often show delicate red fruits, floral aromatics, and freshness thanks to pink granite and altitude.

Domaine des Maisons Neuves 2021 AOC Chiroubles
A leaner, more herbal expression with earthy tones and green edges—a thoughtful, slightly rustic wine.

→ Pair with: Grilled vegetables or lentil salad.

Domaine de Thulon 2021 AOC Chiroubles
Vibrant and aromatic, this one balances juicy red fruit, florals, and a subtle leathery note with soft, fine tannins.

→ Pair with: Charcuterie or herbed roast pork.

Perfumed & Textured – Gamay from Morgon and Juliénas

Deeper soils and varying elevations in these crus offer Gamay with darker fruit, spice, and often a more serious structure.

Domaine Jonathan Pey 2022 AOC Morgon Lieu-dit Bellevue
Deeply perfumed with violet and plum notes, this Morgon has weight on the palate and a dark, brooding energy.

→ Pair with: Duck breast or mushroom risotto.

Domaine Pascal Aufranc 2022 AOC Juliénas Lieu-dit Les Chers
From bluestone soils in a natural amphitheater, this is a graceful wine with violets, dark berries, and a cool minerality.

→ Pair with: Lamb skewers or grilled eggplant.

Domaine du Clos du Fief Michel et Sylvain Tête 2023 AOC Juliénas “Cuvée Tradition”
A wine that defied a tough vintage—dark fruit, herbal notes, crisp acidity—but doesn’t quite linger on the finish. Still, a great example of vintage variability.

→ Pair with: Coq au vin or cassoulet.

Savory & Structured – Côte de Brouilly on Bluestone

Volcanic bluestone gives structure and an herbal, savory character to the wines of Côte de Brouilly.

Mommessin 2020 AOC Côte de Brouilly “Les Grandes Mises”
A striking wine with blackberry and blueberry notes, herbal lift, and a savory, almost graphite finish.

→ Pair with: Grilled lamb chops or aged gouda