23 Jun Andreola: Valdobbiadene DOCG Wines That Speak of Place

Prosecco is typically thought of by style – fresh, fruity, and easy to enjoy. But in the hills of Valdobbiadene in northern Italy, it can be a reflection of place, as I recently discovered during a virtual tasting with Andreola, a family-run winery in the heart of Valdobbiadene DOCG.

At the center of Andreola’s philosophy is the concept of Rive, the steep hillside vineyards that define the landscape of Valdobbiadene. Each Rive represents a specific micro-area where differences in soil, altitude, exposure, and microclimate shape the character of the Glera grape. Rather than seeking uniformity, Andreola embraces these distinctions, producing seven single-vineyard Rive wines that showcase the diversity of this UNESCO-listed territory.

Located between Venice and the Dolomites, the hills of Conegliano Valdobbiadene are among the most dramatic winegrowing areas in Italy. The vineyards climb steep slopes, some reaching inclines of 70 percent. The challenging terrain makes mechanization nearly impossible, requiring much of the work to be done by hand. This type of farming is known as heroic viticulture, and at Andreola, more than 800 hours of manual labor are required per hectare each year.

Founded in 1984 by Nazarene Pola, Andreola is rooted in these hills. A cyclist and bartender by trade, Pola returned to the land where he was born and raised, teaching himself the art of winemaking. More than four decades later, the winery remains family-owned and operated. Today, his son Stefano Pola, who began participating in harvest at just eleven years old, leads the winery and Mirco Balliana and Marco Schievenin are the winemakers.

Andreola cultivates approximately 110 hectares across 250 micro-plots throughout Valdobbiadene. Each parcel is an opportunity to highlight the diversity of the region. The term “Rive” refers to the steep hillside vineyards that characterize Valdobbiadene and identifies wines sourced from a specific village or micro-area. Each site possesses its own combination of altitude, soil composition, exposure, and climate, creating distinct expressions of Glera.

During the tasting, I explored three wines that illustrated Andreola’s approach.

The 26° I° Rive di Col San Martino Extra Brut comes from the village where Andreola is based and from the winery’s original four-hectare vineyard. Situated at more than 400 meters above sea level, the vineyard is among the steepest in the area and is farmed entirely by hand. This wine was the first Extra Brut produced by the winery, reflecting both the vineyard’s ability to ripen and Andreola’s confidence in letting the site shine with minimal residual sugar. The wine offers aromas of white flowers and crisp fruit alongside a pronounced mineral character attributed to the site’s rocky soils.

The Rive di Soligo “Mas de Fer” Extra Dry offers a different expression. Sourced from a steep, south-facing vineyard at approximately 500 meters above sea level, the wine displays vibrant fruit notes balanced by freshness and finesse. Despite its 14 grams per liter of residual sugar, the wine remains remarkably balanced, with creamy texture and lively acidity. With its balance of fruit, freshness, and subtle sweetness, the wine is well-suited to dishes that combine sweet, sour, and savory flavors.

The Dirupo Brut is Andreola’s flagship bottling and has been produced since the winery’s founding in 1984. Unlike the Rive wines, Dirupo is a blend (95% Glera, 5% Bianchetta Trevigiana, 5% Perera) sourced from multiple vineyard sites throughout Valdobbiadene. Its name comes from the local dialect word for “steep,” a tribute to the dramatic slopes that define viticulture in the region. Combining fruit from various sites, Dirupo offers a broader portrait of Valdobbiadene while remaining firmly rooted in the landscape that inspired it. With fruity aromas of ripe pear and red apple, the wine is delicate and elegant with a crisp finish.

Through these three wines, each showcasing elegant aromas, palate creaminess, and overall balance, Andreola offered a glimpse into the character of Valdobbiadene DOCG. Defined by steep slopes, heroic viticulture, and a patchwork of distinct vineyard sites, and in the hands of producers like Andreola, Valdobbiadene DOCG becomes a place whose unique landscape can be expressed, one hillside at a time, through the glass.