04 Nov Three Expressions of Ribolla Gialla from Tenuta Stella

Ribolla Gialla is one of those quiet grapes. It is not flashy or bold with loud aromas, but quietly confident and mineral-driven. Native to Friuli Venezia Giulia in Italy’s northeast corner (and known as Rebula just across the border in Slovenia), Ribolla Gialla is an ancient white variety with wines that are light and crisp, with delicate floral and mineral notes and that unmistakable bright acidity that makes them so food-friendly.

It’s a grape that thrives on transparency, and with Tenuta Stella, I got to see just how expressive it can be. During a virtual tasting, we tasted three versions of Ribolla Gialla: still, sparkling, and Riserva – the same grape, three very different personalities.

The Place

Tenuta Stella sits high in the hills of Collio, near the Slovenian border, in the northernmost and wildest part of the appellation.

The estate began in 2009 with just five hectares. Over time, it has grown to 40, though only 15 are planted with vines. The rest remains forest, a deliberate choice to preserve biodiversity. Despite being in one of Italy’s rainiest regions, they rarely have issues with humidity or disease. The vineyards are perfectly ventilated, a benefit of their perch between the Alps and the Adriatic.

Certified organic since 2014, the team has gone even further with a project called Diversity Ark, studying the insects, plants, and microbiological life that make up their vineyard ecosystem. The soils here are classic ponca, crumbly layers of marl and sandstone that force the vines to dig deep, resulting in wines with unmistakable minerality and tension.

The People

The heart of Tenuta Stella belongs to winemaker Erika Barbieri and her partner, Alberto Faggiani, who also runs the estate. Alberto, a Friuli native, once oversaw production at Yerman Winery. Erika, from Piemonte, studied agricultural biotechnology before earning a degree in enology. She has been part of Tenuta Stella since the very beginning. Together, they focus on local grapes, Ribolla Gialla, Friulano, and Malvasia, working organically and fermenting with native yeasts.

Three Faces of Ribolla Gialla

Tenuta Stella 2020 Ribolla Gialla Pas Dosé

The Ribolla Gialla Pas Dosé is a traditional-method sparkling wine. Ribolla Gialla has naturally high acidity, which makes it perfect for sparkling wine. They made their first pas dosage in 2020, which must be made with quality grapes. Fermented in stainless steel, the wine rests in bottle for 36 months on the lees. The result is a bone-dry sparkling wine with citrus, herbal, almond skin, and mineral notes and bright acidity.

Tenuta Stella 2023 Ribolla Gialla Collio DOC

The 2023 Ribolla Gialla Collio DOC is a pure expression of Ribolla Gialla, vinified in stainless steel with spontaneous fermentation. A short time of skin maceration on a small portion of the gapes which also spend time in tonneau is for added roundness. The wine is a pale gold color with savory notes with earl grey tea, citrus peel essence, herbal aromas. On the palate, the wine is mineral-driven with fresh acidity.

Tenuta Stella 2021 Ribolla Gialla Riserva Collio DOC

The 2021 Ribolla Gialla Riserva Collio DOC is only made in the best vintages. It spends 30 days on the skins in French oak and then two years aging in tonneau and large casks. The wine is an amber color and has aromas of peach tea, dried apricot, candied citrus, and dried herbs with a light white floral note. The smell of the wine has a silkiness to it. On the palate, the wine is layered with textured tannins.

A Taste of Place

While I have not yet visited Tenuta Stella, as I tasted the wines, I could almost feel the breeze from the Collio hills. Next time, I hope to taste the Ribolla Gialla wines on the property while I enjoy the panoramic views.