25 Apr The Fire of Peru is Alive at Los Balcones in Studio City
Chef and Author of the Fire of Peru, Ricardo Zarate is on fire! Considered the “godfather of Peruvian cuisine”, he is spreading the flavors and excitement of Peruvian food across Los Angeles. His restaurant Rosaline in West Hollywood showcases classic Peruvian dishes and his new place, Los Balcones in Studio City, explores Mestizo cuisine, Peruvian dishes blended with Spanish and Asian flavors. Los Balcones is located on the corner of Moorpark, just east of Tujunga. It sits in the space that was previously Girasol. Los Balcones has kept some of the decor, including the magnificent ceiling that looks like an etched flower.
After sitting down in the covered patio looking out onto Moorpark Avenue, our first order of business was to select our drinks. We ordered the “special” cocktail that was described as inspired by Zarate’s book, The First of Peru, and was made with mezacal and an orange juice ice cube. The serving of the cocktail was the first hint of what we were in for – lots of flavor, a little heat and some of the most colorful dishes you may have ever seen.
Knowing that there would be some heat in the dishes, I took a look at the wine list and was very impressed by the selection of grape varieties and producers on the list. Unlike its predecessor Girasole, who may have had great food but completely failed when it came to the wine list, Los Balcones Studio City is doing it right. The by-the-glass offerings include crisp, mineral-driven white wines, such as Gruner Veltliner, Riesling and Txakolina, and the red wines, such as Tempranillo, Garnacha, Alicante Bouschet and Cinsault, are balanced and not over-the-top reds. The wine list consists of wines primarily from Spain, Chile, Portugal, Italy, Argentina, but there are also wines from Oregon, France and California, mostly from the Santa Barbara area.
Peruvian cuisine is one of fusion. It is influenced by the Inca, as well as cuisines brought by colonizers and immigrants from Spain, Italy, China, Japan, West Africa and more. This was reflected in the menu, which is divided into four sections: Un Nuevo Comienzo (Fresh Start), No Te Detengas Ahora (Don’t Stop Now), Termina Como Un Campeón (Finish Like A Champion) and Final Feliz (Happy Ending).
Un Nuevo Comienzo is where you will find the ceviche and other fresh, mostly raw, fish.
Salmon Tiradito (Beet Tiger’s milk, Roasted Baby Beets, Orange Miso, Beet powder) – The color of this dish is bold and bright. The pieces of salmon each sit on top of a baby beet and are then topped with the orange miso.
Ceviche Frito (Striped bass, Rocoto Leche de Tigre, Roasted Sweet Potato, Cancha Corn Chulpe) – The striped bass is served two ways, as ceviche with a tart leche de tigre sauce and breaded and fried. The fried striped bass and sweet potato helped cut the heat of the leche de tigre.
No Te Detengas Ahora is the section for vegetable driven dishes with fish and seafood, as well as the section where the pastas are found.
Pulpo a la Parrilla (Grilled Octopus, Anticucho BBQ, Cauliflower Puree, Pickled Fennel, Botija Olive Aioli) – The beautifully grilled octopus is meaty but tender and coated in the hot-pink bbq sauce.
Quinotto (Quinoa Risotto, Shimenji Shiitake, Trumpet Royal, Maitake, Pecorino, Truffle Essence) – Quinoa is a Peruvian staple and here is has been made into the creamiest quinotto, similar to risotto, and topped with Japanese mushrooms which add a lovely earthy quality.
The Termina Como Un Campeón section is where you will find the larger meat dishes.
Costilla de Short Ribs (Northern Style, 6 Hours Slow Cook Beer Tomato Panca, Lima Bean Tacu Tacu, Sunny Side Egg, Salsa Criolla) – While I was tempted by the Lomo Saltado, the short ribs are a not-to-be-missed item on the menu. The beef ribs are slow-cooked in a beer-infused tomato chile sauce for six hours and almost melt at the touch. They are served in an aluminum box, along with fried plantains, salsa criolla of red onions, over a lima-bean and rice friend pancake (tacu tacu), and topped with a fried egg.
No matter how full you might be, try to save room for a Final Feliz.
Apple Pie (Pink Lady and Granny Smith Apples, Charcoal Banana Strawberry Sorbet, Chantilly Cream) – This is not a traditional American apple pie but has all the elements of tart, sweet and savory.
Lucuma Budino (Pudding, Chantilly Cream, Salted Feuilletine Crumble) – If you like puddings, the lucuma budino is one that is not to be missed. Lucuma, a fruit native to Peru, looks like an avocado. As a pudding, it is rich and creamy with flavors of caramel and maple.
The vibe at Los Balcones is friendly and informal, the kind of neighborhood restaurant you can just walk into for a bite to eat and a drink. But, with the food, as well as the wine and cocktails, as good as they are, this is a place that you might want to book ahead. Whether you make a reservation or get one of the seats at the bar, you will understand through the flavors and colors of the food that the fire of Peru is alive at Los Balcones Studio City.
Los Balcones Studio City
11334 Moorpark St.
Studio City, CA
(818) 924-2323
Ceviche Frito (Striped bass, Rocoto Leche de Tigre, Roasted Sweet Potato, Cancha Corn Chulpe) – The striped bass is served two ways, as ceviche with a tart leche de tigre sauce and breaded and fried. The fried striped bass and sweet potato helped cut the heat of the leche de tigre.
No Te Detengas Ahora is the section for vegetable driven dishes with fish and seafood, as well as the section where the pastas are found.
Pulpo a la Parrilla (Grilled Octopus, Anticucho BBQ, Cauliflower Puree, Pickled Fennel, Botija Olive Aioli) – The beautifully grilled octopus is meaty but tender and coated in the hot-pink bbq sauce.
Quinotto (Quinoa Risotto, Shimenji Shiitake, Trumpet Royal, Maitake, Pecorino, Truffle Essence) – Quinoa is a Peruvian staple and here is has been made into the creamiest quinotto, similar to risotto, and topped with Japanese mushrooms which add a lovely earthy quality.
The Termina Como Un Campeón section is where you will find the larger meat dishes.
Costilla de Short Ribs (Northern Style, 6 Hours Slow Cook Beer Tomato Panca, Lima Bean Tacu Tacu, Sunny Side Egg, Salsa Criolla) – While I was tempted by the Lomo Saltado, the short ribs are a not-to-be-missed item on the menu. The beef ribs are slow-cooked in a beer-infused tomato chile sauce for six hours and almost melt at the touch. They are served in an aluminum box, along with fried plantains, salsa criolla of red onions, over a lima-bean and rice friend pancake (tacu tacu), and topped with a fried egg.
No matter how full you might be, try to save room for a Final Feliz.
Apple Pie (Pink Lady and Granny Smith Apples, Charcoal Banana Strawberry Sorbet, Chantilly Cream) – This is not a traditional American apple pie but has all the elements of tart, sweet and savory.
Lucuma Budino (Pudding, Chantilly Cream, Salted Feuilletine Crumble) – If you like puddings, the lucuma budino is one that is not to be missed. Lucuma, a fruit native to Peru, looks like an avocado. As a pudding, it is rich and creamy with flavors of caramel and maple.
The vibe at Los Balcones is friendly and informal, the kind of neighborhood restaurant you can just walk into for a bite to eat and a drink. But, with the food, as well as the wine and cocktails, as good as they are, this is a place that you might want to book ahead. Whether you make a reservation or get one of the seats at the bar, you will understand through the flavors and colors of the food that the fire of Peru is alive at Los Balcones Studio City.
Los Balcones Studio City
11334 Moorpark St.
Studio City, CA
(818) 924-2323
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