15 Oct Please The Palate Wine of the Week: Cantine Virgili 2024 Inciostar Lambrusco Provincia di Mantova I.G.T.

I was immediately captivated by the nose of the Lambrusco with its aromatic rush of dark fruit, violets, and spice. Fittingly named Inciostar, meaning “ink” in local dialect, this wine is not like the Lambrusco that I have had from Emilia-Romagna. This Lambrusco is from Lombardy, in the province of Mantova (Mantua). Here, Lambrusco takes on a distinctive character that is bolder, more structured, and deeply tied to its clay-rich soils and ancient heritage. That is why the Cantine Virgili 2024 Inciostar Lambrusco Provincia di Mantova I.G.T. is the Please The Palate wine of the week.

About Mantova

Mantova, a UNESCO World Heritage site in southeastern Lombardy, is a city of art, music, and timeless winemaking traditions. Bordered by Emilia-Romagna and Veneto, it reflects both regions’ culinary and cultural influences, such as rich risottos, cured meats, and a balance between northern refinement and Emilian warmth.

The area’s viticultural roots run deep. The Roman poet Virgil, born near Mantua, wrote about vitis labrusca more than 2,000 years ago. Today, the Consorzio Vini Mantovani, established in 2012, continues that legacy, overseeing two DOC and four IGT appellations across 1,800 hectares and 33 member wineries. Its mission is to protect and promote Mantua’s wines and the distinct terroirs that give them life.

About Lambrusco Mantovano DOC

Lambrusco Mantovano is the only Lambrusco produced outside Emilia-Romagna, yet it shares the same exuberant spirit. The DOC encompasses two subzones: Viadanese-Sabbionetano and Oltrepò Mantovano, each defined by glacial moraine and clay soils that lend the wines more structure and depth than their Emilian counterparts.

According to DOC regulations, a Lambrusco Mantovano wine must consist of 85% Lambrusco Viadanese (locally called Grapello Ruperti), Lambrusco Maestri, Marani and/or Salamino, as well as the addition of up to 15% Ancellotta, Brugnola, Sorbara and/or Grasparossa (locally called Grappello Grasparossa). The wine is characterized by its ruby-red color with notes of red fruit, violets, and a dry, refreshing finish. The Viadana area produces fuller, darker wines, while those from Oltrepò Mantovano are lighter and more fruit-forward.

Lambrusco Mantovano DOC is usually made secco (dry), either as a rosso (red) or rosato (rose), although there are some semi-dry styles produced.

Tasting Notes of Cantine Virgili 2024 Inciostar Lambrusco Provincia di Mantova I.G.T.

Cantine Virgili was founded in the early 1990s by Angelo Virgili. The vineyards are located in Oltrepo Mantovano and sit 50 meters above sea level on clay soil. The Inciostar is a blend of Lambrusco Grappello Ruberti and Ancellotta. The wine is a deep ruby red. The nose has lots of body with aromas of Bing cherry, mulberry, blueberry, and chestnut honey. On the palate, the flavor of chestnut honey continues, along with sour cherry and red fruit skins. The wine is rich with lots of acidity, in fact the acidity level is 7.2 (and pH is 3.4). This wine is actually a semi-secco (semi-dry), with 40 grams per liter of residual sugar. That might seem like a lot of sugar, but with so much intense acidity, you do not taste the sweetness.

Food Pairing

This is a Lambrusco that needs food. It is ideal for dishes with fat, such as risotto with sausage and tortellini with pumpkin, which will pair perfectly with the wine’s lively acidity and savory charm. I enjoyed the wine with arancini, roasted meat skewers, cured meats, and cheeses.

Where To Purchase

I tasted this wine at the Simply Italian tasting. It is not currently available in the United States. But if you find a Lambrusco di Montavo, try it.