05 Jun From Tokaj to Toro: A Tasting Tour with Vega Sicilia

Vega Sicilia is one of Spain’s most iconic and prestigious wineries, widely regarded as a benchmark not only for Spanish wine but for fine wine worldwide. While the name is synonymous with its historic estate in Ribera del Duero, the company also owns several esteemed wineries across Spain and Hungary. I’ve had the pleasure of tasting many of their wines on more than one occasion during dinners with Vega Sicilia owner Pablo Álvarez. So when I was invited to have lunch with Gonzalo Iturriaga, the renowned Technical Director and Winemaker, and taste through the portfolio, from Tokaj to Toro, I did not hesitate to accept.

Gonzalo Iturriaga began his career at a family winery in Ribera del Duero after earning a degree in Agricultural Engineering from Universidad Politécnica of Madrid and training as an oenologist at E.N.S.A. in Montpellier. He later became technical director at Bodegas Habla and, from 2009, served as export manager for Lamothe-Abiet in the Iberian region. Since his appointment to Vega Sicilia in 2015, Gonzalo has remained committed to uncompromising quality, collaborative teamwork, and continuous learning.

As we sat down to lunch, Gonzalo emphasized that to understand Vega Sicilia, one must first understand history. “It’s about being in the right place,” he explained. “And when you taste the grapes, you know—you get concentration, power, elegance, and finesse. All of this comes from the place and the soil.” He added, “I taste wines from all over, and there is nothing like Vega Sicilia.”

Vega Sicilia was established in 1864 when Don Eloy Lecanda Chaves, a Bordeaux-trained Spanish winemaker, purchased land in Ribera del Duero. He brought cuttings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Malbec from Bordeaux and planted them alongside Tempranillo, the indigenous variety of the Ribera del Duero. Vega Sicilia became a pioneer in Ribera del Duero and remained the only winery in the area from 1865 until 1927. In 1929, the winery won international acclaim at the Barcelona World’s Fair.

In 1982, the same year Ribera del Duero was granted DO status, the Álvarez family acquired the estate.. The Alvarez family is only the fourth family to own Vega Sicilia in its 100+ years and Pablo Alvarez has been at the helm since 1985. Trained as a lawyer, Pablo fell in love with wine and brought a forward-thinking philosophy to the estate. Vega Sicilia began organic practices in 1985 and planted cork trees starting in 1998. Today, the estate spans over 1,000 hectares, with 600 hectares dedicated to forest.

Pablo Álvarez’s forward-thinking vision has also expanded Vega Sicilia beyond Ribera del Duero. The family now owns or partners in several prestigious projects across Spain and Hungary: Alión (Ribera del Duero), Pintia (Toro), Macán (Rioja), and Oremus (Tokaj, Hungary). In 2018, they began acquiring vineyards in Rías Baixas, leasing a winery in 2024. Their first wine from the region will debut in 2027.

As the winemaker overseeing all these estates, Gonzalo Iturriaga brings a consistent philosophy to each wine: finding the balance between structure and longevity with elegance and drinkability. At our lunch, he shared seven wines – one from each estate – that exemplify this approach.

Mandolás, Tokaji, Hungary

In 1993, Vega Sicilia purchased 120 hectares of vineyards in Hungary where they produce wines under the label Oremus.

Mandolás 2020 Furmint

Best known for sweet wines, Furmint here is vinified dry. Gonzalo described the grape as “capricious.” Hand-harvested grapes are fermented in stainless steel (70%) and new Hungarian oak barrels (30%). The wine bursts with minerality on the nose, followed by floral and stone fruit notes. The palate mirrors this, with vibrant acidity and a clean, lively finish. We paired it with crudo topped with plums and an umami sauce. Approx. retail: $35.

Macán, Rioja

A partnership between Vega Sicilia and the Rothschild family, Macán’s vineyards sit at the foot of the Sierra Cantabria. Vineyard work began in 2004; the winery was constructed between 2009 and 2016. The delay allowed them to hone the desired style.

Macán Clasico 2018 – Aged 12 months in American and French oak and stainless steel, this 100% Tempranillo is juicy and vibrant, filled with dark red fruit aromas. Beginning in 2020, Grenache was introduced to the blend. Approx. retail: $45.

Macán 2018 – From higher terraces and aged 18 months in French barrels and foudres, this version is more structured and complex, with spice and red fruit aromas and refined tannins. In 2020, Graciano was introduced to the blend. Approx. retail: $60.

Alión, Ribera del Duero

A modern expression of Ribera del Duero, Alión uses fruit from different areas within the D.O. The secret, Gonzalo told us, is to vinify the grapes village by village and vineyard by vineyard and then make the final blend. The Alión is aged in a mix of barrels, concrete, foudre, and one granite egg.

Alión 2020 – Aromas of wild blackberry, blackcurrant, pomegranate, and floral herbs. Intense and bold yet polished, with smooth tannins and an elegant finish. Approx. retail: $100.

Pintia, Toro

Vega Sicilia began exploring DO Toro in 1995 and began construction on the winery in 2000. As they do with each new winery, they spent time getting to know the terroir and over the years have crafted a wine that reflects elegance in a rustic area. The key, Gonzalo explained, is when the grapes are harvested. Toro is a hotter region. The vines are all bush vines and are harvested by hand. There is a very small window when the grapes should be harvested. Gonzalo calls it “al dente” which is just before they are fully ripe. In addition, the extraction must be delicate.

Pintia 2019- Fermented with native yeasts and aged in 75% French and 25% American oak (80% new) for 12–15 months. Full-bodied, concentrated, and powerful, yet balanced with spice, ripe fruit, and freshness. Approx. retail: $75.

Vega Sicilia

Located in Ribera del Duero, an area known for high-elevation vineyards with hot days and cool nights—ideal for structured, age-worthy red wines

Valbuena 5° 2019 – A younger, earlier-drinking wine named for its five years of aging before release. This vintage blends 97% Tempranillo and 3% Merlot. Aged in French and American oak before bottling. Full-bodied with dark fruit, spice, and smoky depth. Approx. retail: $175.

Único 2013- The flagship wine, made only in exceptional vintages, is aptly named as it translates to “unique” or “the only one”. The 2013 is composed of 97% Tempranillo and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon from a 40-hectare selection. The wine is aged in large and small American and French oak barrels for as much as six years and then spends three years in the bottle. Unico is not released until at least ten years after the vintage, and sometimes longer. The wine is concentrated, juicy, and complex and can age for decades to come. Approx. retail: $400.

This lunch was more than just a tasting, it was a tour through the wines of Vega Sicilia, from the volcanic hills of Tokaj to the rugged plains of Toro. And, Gonzalo Iturriaga’s thoughtful winemaking shines through each glass.