03 Mar Emporium Thai Market Makes a Thai-Fecta on Sawtelle

Often referred to as Little Osaka or Sawtelle Japantown, Sawtelle Boulevard emerged in the early 20th century as a Westside enclave for Japanese immigrants and Japanese American families. Unlike downtown’s Little Tokyo, Sawtelle developed as a more neighborhood-driven community, anchored by small businesses, boarding houses, and cultural institutions.

The forced incarceration of Japanese Americans during World War II devastated the area, but many families returned after the war and rebuilt. Over time, Sawtelle evolved, and in the late 20th and early 21st centuries, a new wave of Japanese restaurants helped reestablish the boulevard as one of Los Angeles’s most concentrated hubs for Japanese cuisine.

That history makes Sawtelle an easy place to notice when something new takes hold. Long known for its Japanese roots, additional cuisines (Vietnamese, Korean, Chinese, Mexican, Filipin0) have opened restaurants on Sawtelle. And now, on the north end of Sawtelle, near Santa Monica Boulevard, is what I am calling a Thai-fecta. It began with the opening of Tuk Tuk Thai, followed by Ban Ban Burger, and now with the arrival of Emporium Thai Market, the Thai-fecta is complete.

For those familiar with Emporium Thai, this isn’t a new name, but a new chapter. Founded in 2000 by John and Jane Sungkamee, Emporium Thai on Westwood Boulevard has long been one of Los Angeles’s most respected Thai restaurants, quietly setting a standard for authenticity, regional depth, and consistency. From the beginning, the focus was on honoring the bold and balanced flavors John grew up with in Southern Thailand while introducing Angelenos to a more nuanced understanding of Thai cuisine.

Over more than two decades, Emporium Thai became known not just for its food, but for its stewardship of Thai culinary culture, earning Thai SELECT certification from the Royal Thai Government and national recognition from outlets including Eater LA and Los Angeles Magazine. It was a place where Southern Thai dishes, lesser-seen specialties, and family recipes coexisted with a sense of warmth and purpose that felt deeply personal.

Emporium Thai Market builds on that legacy while expanding its scope. Now located on Sawtelle Boulevard, the concept reimagines Emporium Thai with a focus on elevated Southern Thai cuisine. Still family-run, the kitchen is led by a multi-generational team, including Jane Sungkamee, Executive Chef Gina Sungkamee (John’s sister), and Chef de Cuisine Chris Sungkamee (John and Jane’s son).

What is different at Emporium Thai Market is not the welcoming, familial soul of Emporium Thai, but the way it is expressed, through a more focused Southern Thai menu and a full bar program inspired by Thai herbs and aromatics—galanga, lemongrass, turmeric, basil, mint—across drinks like the galanga sunrise, lemongrass lavender margarita, coconut espresso martini, and dragon fruit martini. The space, designed by TOLO Architecture’s Peter Tolkin and Sarah Lorenzen, is a vibrant, welcoming space with a high ceiling, a skylight, a street-facing patio, and a large-scale elephant mural inspired by Thai culture and John’s multi-generational family.

We started with a few classic Thai appetizers, included Crispy Tofu with sweet chili sauce and crushed peanuts, Lisa’s Meatballs with sweet-chili tamarind glaze, and Mee Krob, crispy rice noodles with bean sprouts in sweet caramelized sauce. .

I loved the Morning Glory Shrimp Salad with deep-fried morning glary topped with fresh shrimp and a spicy house dressing. The dish was fresh with subtle heat.

Another favorite was a classic dish, the Krapow Gai (Basil Chicken). The fragrant holy basil minced chicken was served with jasmine rice and a crispy friend egg.

The highlight of the night was rich and savory Southern Crab Curry, a three-generation family recipe with fresh crab and jasmine rice.

For dessert, we had the Cardi B. Mango Sticky Rice, sweet coconut sticky rice with ripe mango and coconut cream, named after singer Cardi B as this is her favorite dessert. The other dessert was Sweet Roti, a crispy Tahi roti with condensed milk drizzle. Buttery and lightly sweet, this was the perfect end to the meal.

Emporium Thai Market brings Southern Thai cooking—bold, balanced, and aromatic—to Sawtelle Boulevard, completing the area’s Thai-fecta.