11 Nov Brughelli Wines: Precision and Patience in Santa Maria Valley

We drove up to Santa Maria to meet Michael Brughelli for lunch at Au Bon Climat in the Santa Maria Valley, where he makes his wines. Everything about him feels thoughtful and deliberate, from the way he talks about farming to the way he builds his wines, one careful step at a time. His focus is entirely on Santa Maria Valley, and he farms at the highest level year after year, believing in the cumulative effects that come only with consistency and patience.

He makes two wines, a Pinot Noir and a Chardonnay. Both are true reflections of the Santa Maria Valley, pure and site-specific, displaying the cool-climate character of the region.

After studying enology at Cal Poly, Michael started his journey in the Santa Maria Valley in 2006, making wine with Ken Volk. This was the start of his falling in love with Santa Maria Valley. In 2011, Michael started his first label, Scar of the Sea, with friend Mikey Giugni, crafting single-vineyard, block-designate wines from Bien Nacido. In 2012, he joined Bien Nacido as assistant vineyard manager. By 2018, he felt it was time to shift his focus to his own vision, and Brughelli Wines was born. The following year, he left Bien Nacido, sold his part in Scar of the Sea, and moved his winemaking to Au Bon Climat.

As Michael explained to us, his background in engineering shaped how he approaches wine. Michael first studied mechanical engineering at Cal Poly but after a course in wine, he began to see the connection between art and science. Today, he is farming for wine, not just grapes, and this philosophy defines every decision he makes.

Michael produces just 500 cases per year, roughly 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, all from Santa Maria Valley vineyards. About 35% of his wines are exported, and he sells them in four-packs (two Pinots and two Chardonnays) for $800 to his wine club and wine retailers. His aim is clear: to be part of crafting the best wines in the world.

2022 Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley

The Chardonnay is picked early from a vineyard high on the hillside. The grapes are whole-cluster pressed cold. The light press goes into stainless steel for a touch of oxidative browning to allow phenolics to develop, before being moved into barrels for native fermentation. Each day, he removes a little wine to make room for the fermenting must, then slowly refills the barrels over the next 1.5 months. This careful control over the grapes is part of his precision.

The wine ages 20 months total (18 months in large format barrels, followed by 2 months in stainless steel). There is no lees stirring, except twice at the end of fermentation, but the wine rests on the lees the entire time. The acidity is so intense that it undergoes 100% malolactic fermentation, which is done more for texture than softness.

Made from the Mt. Eden clone, this Chardonnay has a soft texture, lush acidity, and elegant aromas of lime zest, white nectarine, stony minerality, and brioche. On the palate, the wine is balanced and alive with the acidity racing across the palate and a long, lingering finish.

2022 Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley

For the Pinot Noir, he picks at sunrise from low-yielding blocks, using 20% whole cluster, with the rest destemmed and layered on top. It is a mix of Swan clone, 667, and 777. After a 4–5 day cold soak, it goes through native fermentation lasting 15–22 days. Only the free-run juice goes into 228-liter barrels, one-third of which are new, for 22 months of aging.

The wine bursts with beautiful aromas of potpourri and cherry fruit, held in balance by earthy, mineral tones. The wine is expressive yet restrained, elegant, and grounded.

The Symbol of the Pelican

Brughelli’s family heritage traces back to Switzerland, where on his travels, he often encountered the image of the pelican in her piety, a medieval symbol of self-sacrifice and charity. It’s an emblem that stayed with him, perhaps shaped by his early years as an EMT firefighter during college.

He sketched the image himself for his Chardonnay label. The Pinot Noir label looks more like an old woodcut-style version of the same symbol. Together, they reflect what his wines represent –  precision and humility, generosity and strength.

If you are interested in acquiring Brughelli Wines, become a member. Membership is complimentary and will give you access to winemaker insights as well as put you on the list for the annual allocation of his truly exquisite wines.