19 Aug Montefili: Elegance at Altitude in Chianti Classico

Chianti Classico sits at the very center of one of Italy’s most historic wine regions. Its boundaries were first mapped in the 18th century, and in 1924, producers here formed Italy’s first wine consortium. Today, the Chianti Classico DOCG designation is regarded as the pinnacle of quality for Chianti, known for wines with bright acidity, juicy cherry fruit, and a balance of structure and elegance.

In the hills of Panzano, one of Chianti Classico’s most celebrated subzones, I visited Vecchie Terre di Montefili, an estate that captures these qualities with grace. Here, at some of the highest-altitude Sangiovese plantings in the appellation, winemaker Serena Gusmeri works parcel by parcel, coaxing distinctive expressions from the land’s mix of galèstra, clay, limestone, and quartz. My time there revealed not just the character of the wines, but how closely they are bound to the place itself.

From Brescia to Panzano

Born in Brescia in Lombardy, Serena didn’t grow up in wine, but nature was always central to her life. She studied oenology at the University of Verona, earned a master’s degree in Milan, and completed her thesis in Australia. She began her career in Franciacorta where she made sparkling wines, before she moved south to work in Campania. She deepened her understanding of still wines while working in the south. Serena arrived at Montefili in 2015. By the time she moved to Tuscany, she had already developed a philosophy rooted in minimal intervention with an emphasis on letting the vineyard speak for itself. “Every vineyard is a different child,” she explained, each with its own age, exposure, and soil composition. Her work is as much about observation of leaves, roots, soils, and even the insects as it is about winemaking.

The Montefili Story

The property’s modern chapter began in 1975, when Roccaldo Acuti purchased the land and envisioned a Sangiovese-focused estate, with just a small parcel of Cabernet Sauvignon. In 2004, his daughter inherited the winery, but differing visions eventually led to its sale in 2015 to three American owners: Nicola Marzovilla, a restaurateur from New York, Frank Bynum, a collector,  and Tom Peck Jr., based in Florida.

Serena joined the same year and has since taken over full responsibility for the wines. Under her guidance, the estate earned Diversity Ark certification in 2022, recognizing its commitment to biodiversity. The owners have invested steadily in new equipment, including a press, reaper, and soon a labeling machine, while maintaining the winery’s artisanal scale of about 3500 cases annually, 70% of which are exported.

A Landscape in Layers

Montefili’s 12.5 hectares of vines, planted between 1975 and 1982, surround the winery at altitudes ranging from 480 to 550 meters above sea level. This elevation, combined with dramatic diurnal shifts, preserves acidity and aromatics in the grapes.

The soils here form a geological mosaic and each soil type contributes to the wines. Limestone found at higher elevations brings freshness and verticality. Galèstra (flaky marl), found in the amphitheater-shaped vineyard planted in 1975, contributes power and richness. Clay preserves the fruit purity and freshness. Quartz adds spice and minerality.

In 2000, Montefili became part of Italy’s first organic district, promoting sustainable viticulture and Montefili continues to farm with a philosophy of respect for nature, tradition, and sustainability. Each plot is harvested by hand, fermented spontaneously, and macerated gently for just 12–15 days to avoid excessive tannin. Aging takes place in medium and large oak barrels (small new oak barrels are never used) to maintain transparency of fruit and terroir.

Montefili Wines

My visit with Serena Gusmeri to Montefili started with a dinner at the infamous Antica Macelleria Cecchini by Dario Cecchini in Panzano. A restaurant whose mottos are “Carne Diem” and ” To Meat or Not To Meat” is  a meat-centric restaurant. Tables are communal with one seating per night.

On the table are classic Chianti Fiascos filled with wine for diners to enjoy. But we were lucky to enjoy two wines from Montefili: Chianti Classico DOCG and Bruno di Rocca.

The Chianti Classico DOCG is 100% Sangiovese and offered aromas of red cherries and violets with notes of earth and spice and juicy acidity that paired beautifully with the different cuts of beef. The Bruno di Rocca is a Super Tuscan blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon and expressed notes of dark black fruits, licorice, leather, and a touch of mint. With a bold body and chewy tannins, this wine was enjoyed with the Bistecca Fiorentina.

Tasting the Anfiteatro Vertical

The next day, we visited the winery and sat down in the tasting room for a vertical of Anfiteatro, Montefili’s first Sangiovese vineyard planted in 1975.

2013 – Made by the previous winemaker, the wine was aged in tonneau and bottled in 2016 and offered ripe, lightly stewed fruits, savory herbs, and drying tannins.

2015 – Serena’s first vintage was a good vintage with a sunny September, resulting in concentrated grapes and a powerful wine with blackberry, black cherry, sweet tobacco, and dried flowers, supported by grippy tannins and a fresh, long finish.

2017 – A challenging vintage with lots of rain, but after eight years, the wine is showing elegance with aromas of dried violets, dark red fruits, vibrant acidity, and well-integrated tannins.

2019 – From a nearly perfect vintage with ideal temperatures and little rain, the wine offers lifted florals, pure fruit, and structured yet graceful tannins.

2020 – A hot vintage, the wine is bold with ripe fruit and spice notes, full tannins and brisk acidity. Bottled in 2024 and released in September 2025, the wine is still young.

Across vintages, the wines share a thread of freshness, elegance, and precision, a reflection of altitude and Serena’s light hand.

Beyond Anfiteatro

To complete our visit, after the vertical tasting of Anfiteatro, we enjoyed lunch on the terrace with a few more Montefili wines. A lively, citrus-driven Chardonnay paired beautifully with local cheeses and soups. We also enjoyed the Vigna Nel Bosco, a Sangiovese with ripe cherry and baking spice notes, and Vigna Vecchia, a single-vineyard Sangiovese from the vineyard planted in 1981 and home to all three main soil types. The Vigna Vecchia offered aromas of earth, pepper, and dried rose petals. The Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG, with juicy red cherry, plum, clove, and nutmeg notes, was an elegant finale.

Montefili’s wines embody the strengths of Chianti Classico – bright acidity, purity of fruit, and a structure shaped by the land rather than by oak. But they also carry the mark of a winemaker deeply attuned to the individuality of each parcel. In Panzano’s high vineyards, Serena Gusmeri is quietly proving that elegance, more than power, is what endures.