06 Aug Please The Palate Wine of the Week: Idlewild 2023 Timorasso, Las Cimas, Russian River Valley

Timorasso may not be a household name, but it’s a grape with deep roots in Piemonte. Nearly extinct by the 1980s, this ancient variety has since made a small but mighty comeback in Italy. And now, for the first time ever, it has made its way to California. Sam Bilbro of Idlewild Wines is the first U.S. winemaker to grow and produce Timorasso, and his 2023 Timorasso, Las Cimas Vineyard, Russian River Valley, is the Please The Palate Wine of the Week.

About Idlewild Wines

Sam Bilbro of Idlewild Wines has built his winemaking identity around a deep respect for the grape varieties of Piemonte, Italy. Rather than follow trends, he’s carved his own path, bringing a wide range of Piemontese grapes to California and growing them with intention in Mendocino County and the Russian River Valley. His vineyards are home to Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Barbera, Cortese, Arneis, Grignolino, Freisa, Erbaluce, Favorita, Nascetta, Pelaverga, Brachetto, Ruché, and now, Timorasso, the first one in the U.S.

Sam works with three vineyards, Lost Hills in Yorkville Highlands and Las Cimas in Russian River Valley, both of which he farms, and Fox Hill Vineyard in Central Mendocino. Las Cimas Vineyard was originally planted in the late 1990s and early 2000s to Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, and Cabernet Sauvignon. In 2018, the property was purchased by David Drummond, who had a vision to transform the site into something far more diverse and ecologically vibrant.

Sam first visited Las Cimas in 2019 and began managing the vineyard in 2020. That same year, they began an ambitious grafting project to convert the vineyard to predominantly northern Italian grape varieties. Today, Las Cimas is home to 46 different varieties, many rarely seen outside of Piemonte. The vineyard also underwent a full conversion to organic farming in 2020, with a strong emphasis on regenerative practices. Sheep roam the rows to mow and fertilize naturally, while permanent cover crops are managed through crimping rather than tilling, preserving soil structure and biodiversity. Four insectary hedgerows have been planted to attract beneficial insects and support pollinator populations, helping to create a resilient, self-sustaining ecosystem.

Tasting Notes

Timorraso comes from the Colli Tortonesi in South-eastern Piedmont. Timorasso is a white grape with thick skins that protect it against disease and weather. It is an aromatic variety that can be full-bodied with good acidity. The 2023 is the very first single bottling of Timorasso for Idlewild. In 2022, it was blended into the Flora and Fauna white blend. For the 2023, Sam picked the grapes, which were directly pressed and fermented with native yeasts. The wine was aged for five months in neutral puncheon and then eight months in bottle before release. The Idlewild 2023 Timorasso is mineral-driven with stone fruit, lemon citrus, and herbaceous spice notes. On the palate, the wine has a good midweight texture, fresh and bright acidity, and a lovely saline finish.

Food Pairing

Enjoy Timorasso with chicken sauteed with garlic and tomato or spaghetti carbonara. It is a wine with enough texture and body to match these dishes. I enjoyed the wine with a charcuterie and cheese plate, and especially loved it with creamy Parma butter spread on a baguette.

Where To Purchase

Only 80 cases were made of the Idlewild Wines 2023 Timorasso, which retails for $42. For more information or to purchase the wine, visit the Idlewild Wines website.

Meet The Winemaker

Get to know Sam Bilbro in 30 questions on the Wine Soundtrack USA podcast.

Read the story Passion for Italian Grapes in California that I wrote for Monach.wine

Check out other wines from Idlewild that have been the Please The Palate wine of the week:

Please The Palate Wine of the Week: Idlewild Wines 2021 Brachetto, Fox Hill Vineyard, Mendocino

Please The Palate Wine of the Week: Idlewild 2021 Arneis, Lost Hills Ranch, Yorkville Highlands

Please The Palate Wine of the Week: Idlewild Wines 2020 Grignolino, Fox Hill Vineyard, Mendocino