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Aglianico: The Barolo of the South

This story originally appeared in the Napa Valley Register (October 13, 2015) Aglianico, a black grape grown in the southern regions of Italy, is often considered the “Barolo of the South.” But, perhaps Barolo is the “aglianico of the north”? After all, aglianico is one of the noblest grapes, shrouded in mystery and fog. It may not be easy to produce or pronounce (can you say "ah-li-YAH-nee-koe"?) but wine people love it, and they should. A seminar led by the North American Sommelier Association explored this fantastic grape. The origin of aglianico is debatable. It is among some of the oldest of grapes in existence. Some say that the name comes from Hellas (Ellenic) and was brought by the Greeks as early as the sixth century B.C. But linguists have not found a connection between the words “aglianico” and “ellenico." The Latin name for “Greece” was “Graecus,” not “Hellenicus.” Others argue that it might be a native varietal from southern Italy. While the debate of origin continues, one thing known is that the DNA is not related to any modern grape.

The aglianico grape is a small dark berry that grows in small to medium size clusters. While it buds early, it is late ripening and is harvested late in the season. The resulting wine is an intense ruby red, shifting to garnet as the wine ages. It has notes of dark berries, violet, bing cherry, spices, leather, cloves and tobacco. It is a difficult grape to grow and vinify, resulting in harsh tannins and acidity that need long aging. The resulting wines are complex, elegant and full of personality.

27 November, 2015

The patriarch of modern Priorat: Carles Pastrana

This piece originally appeared in the Napa Valley Register (November 6, 2015) If someone had told Carles Pastrana years ago that he would be considered the patriarch of modern Priorat wine and the owner of two of the greatest wines in the world (Clos de l’Obac and Miserere), he would have said they were insane.

Priorat is not a normal region. A tiny region within Catalonia, Spain, Priorat is a small area that covers 4,000 acres. A very hilly area with hot and dry summers and cold and windy winters, the soil consists of slate, rocks and bushes. It is not an area to easily plant in and many were thought to be foolish to plant there. The Romans did not dare to try. But in the 12th century, the Catalonian king founded a place for monks. No vines, no grapes. No grapes, no wine. No wine, no communion. So, the first thing to do when the monks moved in was to plant grapes.

25 November, 2015

It’s Fowlplay at Upstairs at the Ace Hotel

The cocktails have "gone to the birds" at Upstairs Bar at the Ace Hotel in downtown LA. That is, the new menu at the rooftop bar is dedicated to the birds with a "fowlplay" menu. It's a pretty creative theme and the result is a very tasty menu!

Did you know that there are 477 species of birds that live in and around downtown LA? According to the new menu, a family of Cooper's Hawks have made their nest on the radio tower across Broadway and you can see them if you squint hard enough (or have super vision). Also, in the fall and spring, thousands of Voux's swifts fly across the skyline to the Chester Building chimney on Fifth and Broadway where they roost. And, on the top of the US Bank Building, you can find Peregrine Falcons nesting there.

While people-watching can be fun, the rooftop patio of the Ace Hotel is the perfect spot to do some bird watching while enjoying a cocktail from the descriptive menu Daniel Sabo, Bar Manager Evan Enderle and their bar team have put together.

23 November, 2015