Two almost-forgotten grapes of Piemonte

Written by Allison Levine on June 26, 2018

Wine

This story originally appeared in the Napa Valley Register.

Italy is home to more indigenous grape varieties than anywhere else in the world. According to Ian D’Agata’s comprehensive guide, “Native Wine Grapes of Italy,” there are approximately 2,000 indigenous grape varieties in Italy. Of those 2,000, approximately 400 of them are used to make commercial wine.

Twenty of these grapes are grown in Piemonte in the northwest of Italy. The most famous grapes are Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto but it is also home to Cortese (the grape in Gavi) and the sweet wines Moscato and Brachetto. Many of the lesser known grape varieties in Piemonte have been close to extinction.

As in Napa, where many grape varieties were pulled up in order to plant Cabernet Sauvignon, in the Asti region in Piemonte, many grape varieties were decreased to plant more Barbera. But, thanks to some winemakers in Piemonte, some of these lesser known grapes have survived and are beginning to thrive again. Two of these grapes are Freisa and Grignolino. Both red grapes, they produce wines that are high in tannins and acidity. They both are fun to say out loud and even more fun to drink and enjoy with food.

Please The Palate Pick of the Week: Grignolino

Written by Allison Levine on May 19, 2018

Wine

As the glasses sat in front of me, I looked at them and all I could think of was how sexy they looked. Transparent garnet in color, it is the lack of color intensity that drew me in. There was something so inviting about the wines and hence Grignolino is the Please The Palate pick of the week.

Grignolino is an indigenous variety from the Monferrato Hills in Piemonte, Italy. It has been a noble grape since the 8th century. In fact, a document from the year 1243 mentioned Grignolino which may make it one of the most historic of grapes. Grignolino was one of the primary grapes in Asti, in northern Italy, for more than 1000 years but much was replaced with the easier-to-grow Barbera and for 50 years, Grignolino was close to abandonment. But Grignolino is being revived and it is a wine to look out for.

Grignolino produces a pale red wine that has naturally high levels of tannin and acidity. It is a food-friendly wine and has great aging potential. It may seem strange that it does not have intense color, like other red wines, but that is because the skins of the Grignolino grape do not have a lot of phenolic compounds. The color of the wine does not determine the quality of the wine.

One of the standouts was the Tenuta Santa Catarina Arlandino 2010 Grignolino d’Asti, a light red wine with an orange tint and aromas of wild strawberry and raspberry and savory notes. A medium-bodied wine, this wine is produced in stainless steel and has medium tannins and medium plus acidity.

I also enjoyed the Tenuta Santa Catarina M2012 Grignolino d’Asti DOC. This Grignolino has a longer maceration period and spends two years in tonneau barrel (900 liters). The resulting wine has aromas of stewed fruit and soft tannins and, after six years, still has high acidity.

Grignolino is sexy to look at and to drink and that is why it is the Please The Palate pick of the week.

Grignolino: The incredible lightness of wine

Written by Allison Levine on March 2, 2016

Wine

This story originally appeared in the Napa Valley Register (February 19, 2016).

Last week, hundreds of Italian wineries, importers, buyers and journalists descended upon New York for the Italian Trade Commission’s Vino 2016. As two days of seminars and tastings took place, I was expressly interested in a seminar about grignolino.

Grignolino, you ask? That is, once you can pronounce it…gri-gno-li-no. I had first learned about this lovely little grape when I was getting my Italian Wine Specialist Certification with the North American Sommelier Association. An indigenous grape from the Piedmont region in Northern Italy, grignolino became a DOC in 1974 and was historically an important grape. But, as people wanted bigger wines, this light-colored wine lost attention. So the idea of a seminar dedicated entirely to his grape was all the more intriguing. It is rare enough to find one grignolino, let alone to have 11 to taste in one seating.

Apparently I was not alone. The seminar was led by Ian D’Agata, Vinitaly International Academy’s scientific director. As he began the seminar, he looked out at the room of only 20 people. There were empty seats in the room but that is not what he saw. The fact that 20 people were interested in this very under-rated wine was what D’Agata saw was a milestone for this little grape. We all laughed. Read More +