14 Oct Milo: Finding Focus on Etna’s Eastern Slope

Attending the annual Etna Days was both thrilling and daunting. On the first day, I walked into a room filled with more than 500 wines from 110 producers spread across every slope of Mount Etna. Where would I even begin? North, south, northeast, east, southeast? With Etna’s 142 contrade, the officially recognized sub-zones, each defined by its own soil, elevation, and microclimate, the possibilities felt endless.

Diving into a tasting of 500 wines from Etna can overwhelm even the most seasoned taster. The volcano is a living, breathing entity. Over centuries, lava flows have carved and re-carved the landscape, leaving behind a patchwork of soils and exposures. No two contrade are quite the same, each with their own microclimate. So, with a total of 142 contrade, Etna seems almost impossible to understand.

I decided to start with one grape: Carricante, the backbone of Etna Bianco. By DOC regulation, Etna Bianco must contain at least 60% Carricante, with up to 40% Catarratto and other Sicilian white grapes, Minnella, Grecanico Dorato, Inzolia, and Trebbiano, permitted in the blend. That flexibility means the wines can vary widely in expression, especially when grapes are sourced from across the volcano.

To narrow my focus, I turned to the heart of the eastern slope and the region of Milo.

Milo is unique in the world of Etna. It is the only area authorized to produce Etna Bianco Superiore, a designation with stricter rules. Here, wines must contain a minimum of 80% Carricante, with just 20% allowed for Catarratto and other varieties. The result is a purer, sharper expression of Carricante, one that reflects the land with striking clarity.

Eight contrade make up Milo: Villagrande, Pianogrande, Caselle, Rinazzo, Fornazzo, Praino, Volpare, and Salice. Nestled between the mountain at their back and the Ionian Sea at their feet, they are blessed with conditions that set them apart. Milo receives more rainfall than other slopes, tempered by sea breezes that sweep in daily. Temperatures swing dramatically between day and night, slowing the ripening cycle and intensifying flavor. Harvest often stretches into October, yielding grapes with naturally high acidity and moderate pH, the foundation for wines with remarkable longevity.

The soils here are just as dynamic, alternating between fine volcanic ash and sandy lava deposits. They drain easily but hold water deep below, providing balance in dry spells. In the glass, that balance translates into wines marked by tension, salinity, and a distinctive mineral thread.

Etna D.O.C. Bianco Superiore accounts for less than 1% of the total Etna D.O.C. production. Focusing on Milo, I tasted 18 wines which allowed me to taste how Carricante expresses itself within the Milo area.

Benanti Viticoltori Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Rinazzo 2023 – 100% Carricante and aged on lees for 12 months in stainless steel tanks. Delicate and rich with orange blossom, citrus, and mineral notes with mouthwatering acidity.

Benanti Viticoltori Pietra Marina Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Rinazzo 2020 – 100% Carricante, selected grapes from old and young vines, aged for 30 months on the fine lees in stainless steel, followed by one year in bottle. Light fruity, with orange blossom, apple, petrol, and flinty mineral aromas, and finishes with saline and almond notes.

Cantine Di Nessuno Milus Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Volpare 2022 – 80% Carricante and aged in acacia tonneau. Floral, citrus, and flint notes with bright, textured acidity.

Maugeri Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Volpare 2024 – 100% Carricante, direct to press, 90% stainless steel, 10% French oak aged on lees for 8 months. Tropical citrus notes with tart, mouthwatering acidity and refreshing minerality.

Maugeri Frontebosco Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Volpare 2024 – 100% Carricante from a single vineyard, facing south, in front of the forest, fermented in 40% stainless steel and 60% French oak barrels, and aged on lees for 8 months. Very fresh and mineral driven with crisp, textured acidity.

Maugeri Frontemare Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Praino 2024 – 100% Carricante from the vineyard facing the sea, fermented in 30% in stainless steel and 70% in French oak barrels and aged on lees for 8 months. Rounded floral aromas with intense acidity and a freshness, reflecting the breezy, cooler microclimate.

Sive Natura’s Biancomilo Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Praino 2022 – 100% Carricante from 90+ year old vines, stainless steel fermented and aged in stainless steel and neutral oak. Ripe tropical fruit, citrus, peach, and wildflower aromas with savory minerality. Round on the midpalate with intense acidity.

Villagrande di Marco Nicolosi Asmundo Etna Bianco Superiore DOC 2024 – 90% Carricante and 10% native Etna grape varieties, aged in stainless steel for 10 months. Bright tropical citrus notes, persistent minerality, and fresh acidity.

Villagrande di Marco Nicolosi Asmundo Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Villagrande 2021 – 90% Carricante and 10% native Etna grape varieties, aged in 500L oak barrels for 12 months and one year in bottle. Ripe citrus aromas, minerality on the palate, and bright acidity.

Cantine Iuppa Lavi Cantrada Salice 2023 Etna Bianco Superiore DOC – 90% Carricante and 10% Catarratto, aged in stainless steel and then in bottle for 8 months. Fresh citrus and mineral notes with juicy acidity.

Cantine Iuppa Lindo Contrada Salice 2023 Etna Bianco Superiore DOC – 100% Carricante, aged in tonneau and stainless-steel tanks, then in bottle for at least 8 months. Vibrant with pineapple, white nectarine, floral, and herbal aromas, fresh acidity and salinity with a long finish.

Azienda Agricola Calcagno Pimazappa Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrade Volpare 2023 – 100% Carricante, fermented and aged on fine lees for six months in 50% steel tanks and 50% barriques. Flinty notes with roundness on the palate and acidity on the perimeter.

Azienda Di Rachele Etna Bianco Superiore DOC Contrada Salice 2022 – 100% Carricante, aged in stainless steel containers, came across bright and pineapple-driven.

Federico Curtaz Etna Bianco Superiore DOC 2021 – 100% Carricante, aged 12 months in steel and large wood. Ripe with citrus, honey, and floral notes and intense acidity.

I Custodi Della Vigne Dell Etna Imbris Contrada Caselle 2021 – 100% Carricante from a single vineyard on a hill, fermented and aged 18 months in stainless steel, then aged 24 months in bottle. Light notes of herbs and orange blossom honey, minerality and salinity, with firm acidity.

Tenute Dei Ciclopi Etna Bianco Superiore DOC 2022 – 100% Carricante whole-cluster pressed, fermented in stainless steel, aged 12 months in large barrels, and then six months in bottle. A mineral-driven wine with lime citrus and saline notes and vibrant freshness.

Terre Costantino Contrada Praino Etna Bianco Superiore DOC 2023 – 100% Carricante from a young vineyard, aged in stainless steel. Pineapple, lemon, floral, almond, and flinty notes with savory acidity.

Theresa Eccher’s Contessa del Vento Contrada Caselle Etna Bianco Superiore DOC 2024 – Contessa del Vento is a cloud of cold air that forms above Mount Etna when the sea air and volcano air meet. 100% Carricante, aged for six months in stainless steel, the wine is bright and fresh with white fruit, Mediterranean scrub, and mineral aromas, and a subtle bitter almond finish.

Each wine was nuanced in its own way, a result of the vineyard, the vintage, and the vinification. But overall, what I found was an incredible white wine. Carricante offers high acidity, distinctive minerality, and beautiful balance. This is a wine to enjoy with shellfish, seafood, and roasted chicken. And, Carricante Etna Bianco Superiore DOC is a wine that you can lay down and age.